Tashi Delek (in Tibetan), Juley (in Lahaul and Ladakh), and Namaskar! These heartfelt greetings open the door to the mystical realms of Spiti, a land rich in culture, serenity, and adventure. Nestled in the embrace of the Himalayas, Spiti is more than just a destination—it's an experience, a connection to something deeper.
One of the central mantras of Tibetan Buddhism is "Om Mani Padme Hum"—a powerful invocation meaning, "On the path of life, with intention and wisdom, we can achieve the pure body, speech, and mind of a Buddha." This is the essence of Spiti: a place where the physical and spiritual intertwine, offering both tranquility and a sense of wonder.
Alongside Leh and Ladakh, Spiti has emerged as a haven for adventure seekers, bikers, and travelers from across the world. It is particularly captivating for those who yearn for something off the beaten path. Whether you are drawn by its towering Himalayan heights, rich Buddhist heritage, ancient gompas, or the stark beauty of its cold desert landscape, Spiti is a place like no other.
The Journey
In August 2024, I embarked on a thrilling road trip to Spiti, accompanied by two exceptional companions. Leading the way was Yeshi, a Tibetan ex-army man with extensive experience serving in Ladakh. Not only has he journeyed to Spiti six times before, but he has also shared his insights through an impressive 130 YouTube vlogs! The other member of our crew was Sanjay, or as we affectionately call him, Deva—a neighbor from Dharamshala, an avid trekker, and a passionate photographer who knows the Dhauladhars like the back of his hand.
We set off in Yeshi's trusty Tata Tiago, ready to explore the breathtaking beauty of Spiti—where adventure and serenity coexist in perfect harmony.
Day 1 – August 24th: A Spiritual and Scenic Start to Our Spiti Adventure
We set off bright and early at 5:15 am from Dharamshala, eager to embrace the breathtaking beauty that lay ahead. Our route was nothing short of mesmerizing, taking us through the picturesque landscapes of Palampur, Jogindernagar, Drang, and Kataula, before weaving towards Bajaura, Manali, and finally, the majestic Atal Tunnel. The day would end with a peaceful night halt at Koksar, situated at an altitude of 10,200 feet.
Our first spiritual stop was the revered Maa Chamunda Temple, a divine beginning to the journey. As we continued, we stumbled upon a hidden gem—a stunning piece of ancient history—the 8th-century ASI-preserved architectural marvel, Baseshwar Mahadev Shiv Mandir in Bajaura, Kullu. This lesser-known temple, with its intricate design and deep historical significance, left us in awe of the craftsmanship and devotion from a bygone era.
Arriving in Koksar, we visited the Koksar Gompa, a serene and spiritually charged Tibetan Buddhist monastery also known as Dimphug Gonpa. This historical gompa, dating back to the 17th century, holds immense importance in Lahaul. Inside, we were greeted by the peaceful presence of Avalokiteshvara and Tara, along with other revered Tibetan deities. The gompa's rich traditions have been carefully preserved over the centuries, supported by its substantial income from vast farmlands. The produce from these lands sustains the gompa, ensuring its upkeep and continuing legacy.
As we took in the tranquil surroundings and the profound spiritual energy of the gompa, it became clear that our journey was about more than just adventure—it was a deep connection with the cultural and spiritual heart of the Himalayas.
We spent the night at a cozy homestay in Koksar, sharing a comfortable room for just Rs 800—a great off-season rate. Our host, a remarkably energetic 65-year-old gentleman from Lahaul, welcomed us with warmth and hospitality, embodying the spirit of these remote Himalayan regions.
Homestays are a common and cherished way to experience life in Lahaul and Spiti, offering travelers a unique glimpse into the local culture and lifestyle. While August is considered off-season for tourism in the district, with most hotels and restaurants closed or operating at low capacity, life here continues to thrive in other ways.
Lahaul’s fertile land is in full swing, shipping high-quality produce like cauliflower, peas, and potatoes to high-paying markets in Punjab, Delhi, and beyond. This agricultural boom sustains the region during the quieter months, reflecting the resilience and resourcefulness of the local people.
Even in its quieter moments, Lahaul and Spiti’s charm remains untouched, making it a hidden gem for those who seek tranquility and an authentic experience away from the usual tourist crowds.
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